Mangan Opo ndik Malang? A Culinary Directory

This October, I will return to my hometown, Malang (also famous as Paris van East Java). My hometown is so beautiful: its varied geography provides a wealth of leisure activities, such as visiting to serene water dam and waterfalls, knowing the ancient history foundings, making a fascinating day trips. I’m so excited about returning home, for I plan to trace back my culinary adventure in my lovely town.It;s been soo long maan….kuangen puol with my town.

Here I will share you all recommendations of what and where to eat in Malang: from light snack to full meal… The list is arranged according to my preference from the most to the least. Anyway, I’d like to thank my net pals, Fahroe and Pipiw: they have been great sources of information. I believe that this post might not be very complete or accurate, since it’s been 3 years for me to leave Malang. Hopefully, someone will inform me if there are some changes or further information.

Wait, before we move on, you may check out some special terms below (in case you are not familiar with them). This post is trilingual: my language is a mix between Osob Ngalam, Bahasa, and English. So, deloken, Jes!

Arema= acronym of Arek Malang, means Malang people (especially the young)

Gang = alley

Goreng = fried

Kecambah = grean been sprouts

Kecap = black soybean sauce

Kukus = steamed

Lontong = rice cake (made from rice wrapped in banana leaves and boiled for hours)

Nasi = steamed rice

Pasar = traditional market

Perempatan/Prapatan = junctions

Pertigaan = T-junction

Petis = shrimp paste (or black paste)

Pikulan = a street vendor that ‘mikul’ (carry) his selling on his shoulders

Pojokan = the corner of

Pujasera = food court

Rombong = street vendor that push a ‘rombong (booth) while selling his product

Sambal = chilli paste

Sego = nasi; steamed rice

Warung = canteen/cafeteria serving local menu

NOW, HERE WE GO….

I. Bakso

It’s the trademark of Malang. Arema calls it OSKAB

Details: a soup containing penthol (meat ball) with its variation: goreng (fried) , halus, kasar, telor; tahu (tofu), somay goreng or kukus , mie (noodle), jeroan sapi (beef liver), vermicelli. Served with daun bawang, fried onion, tomato and chilli sauce, soybean sauce.
Location : Bantaran, Lowokwaru, Glintung, Kemirahan in front of Gang, belakang Mitra II (this is my favourite “Bakso President”), pertigaan pasar Halmahera, Gajayana, etc. There are also rombong2 that sell them in housing areas.

II. Kripik Tempe

Details: fried chips from tempe.

Location: The most famous is Tempe Sanan Cak Mul at Jalan Sanan; Toko Ardani Jl. JA Suprapto.

III. Tahu Campur

Details: The soup is like soto (yellow) with extra bumbu petis, served with daging otot (beef tendon),fried tahu (tofu), menyok (mashed cassava), sayur slada (lettuce), kecambah , suun (vermicelli), krupuk, and hot spicy sambal. Huh-hah! Mbrebes mili…

IV. Rujak Petis ( Rujak Cingur)
Details : Sliced fruits (cucumber, pineapple, bengkoang/jicama) + boiled vegetables (kangkoong, kecambah, gobis (cabbage), kacang panjang/long peanuts), tahu, menjes, & tempe goreng, cingur sapi (beef mouth) served with peanut sauce + petis udang.

Location : Almost all kampung, Jalan Amprong, Jalan Lawu (pindah Sawojajar) Tenes Stadion Rujak Manis and Es Degan Stadion and Primagama Jalan Semeru, Stasiun Kota, Warung Pojok in front of BTC Pajajaran

V. Tahu Petis and Telor Tahu

Details: tofu, scrambled egg, kecambah, lontong, krupuk served with peanut sauce and petis

Location : near SMAN 5 (evening), perempatan Kasin in front of Sego Resek and Gang next to Sinar Brawijaya (in front of Kapal Teknik Unibraw)

VI. Warkop & Ketan

Details: ketan (steamed glutinous rice served with shredded peanut and sugar palm syrup), hot coffee/tea/ginger ale.
Location : perempatan Rampal – SKI, perempatan Kauman in front of RSB Muhammadiyah, Talun Gang next to billiard pool.

VII. CATEGORY: NASI

1/ Sego Campur Buk (Buk refers to ‘ibu’ in Arodam/Madurese)

Details : nasi sayur lodeh, paru goreng, jeroan, ayam, empal
Location : Next to Brantas Gas Sation; Pertokoan Stasiun Kota; Kidul Dalem, in front of Saguanto; Pasar Kebalen ; Pasar Besar

2/ Sego Goreng and Mie Jowo, Sego Resek
Details : nasi goreng putih / mawut, mie goreng / rebus.
Location : Pojokan perempatan Kasin next to bengkel Vespa, Pojokan perempatan Merapi – Buring (RRI Lama); perempatan Pattimura and gedung WISH / BTC, Gang in front of Soto Lonceng Wetan Pasar; Pak Wulan Klampok Kasri; Nasi Goreng Kambing Pedes in kampung Klampok Kasri

3/ Sego Campur Korak and Nasi Bebek

Details : sayur lodeh, bening, sop, kecambah, lauk tempe or tahu plus krupuk; accompanied by teh pait (black tea). The pakan (rice) bebek is nasi lauk pecel and gorengan weci
Location : pojokan pertigaan turunan Bendungan Sutami – IKIP lewat Ambarawa, gang2 kecil at IKIP jalan Surabaya and Jombang, gang Kerto2an in IAIN area and Unibraw, in front of Kelud, in front of Pasar Bareng, pertigaan jalan Jakarta – Ijen (nasi bebek is especially open in the evening)

4/ Nasi Orem-orem
Details : sayur tempe orem2 (sayur kunir), krupuk, lontong or nasi.
Location : in front of pasar Kebalen, rel kereta Boldi, Pertukangan in front of Bioskop Jaya.
If you are lucky, you can find the street vendors (rombong) at Dinoyo, Gajayana and Veteran.

5/ SGPC alias Sego Pecel or LECEP

Details: It’s Javanese salad: boiled vegetables (turi, cambah, kenikir, bayam, kacang panjang, kobis dll) served with peanut sauce and rempeyek. Other accompaniments can be tempe orek, mendhol, bakwan jagung,  and serundeng. There are many versions of pecel: Malang, Blitar, Madiun, Ponorogo, Tulungagung.

Location:Jalan Gede (Dempo), Jalan Rajekwesi, Jalan Kawi , Jalan Letjen S. Parman near Wijaya Kusuma and Dinoyo (in front of pasar), Jalan Bendungan Sutami in front of Pom Bensin / Unmuh Kampus II, Pasar Mergan, Jl. Puntodewo (after SKI-Kalimosodo)

6/ Sego Trancam Nasi served with sayur lodeh tahu, urap2, lamtoro . Sometimes called seglo slametan or sego kuburan (meals for death ceremony).
Location : di pasar2, Kasin next to Sego Resek

7/ Nasi Pecel Lele

Details: Pecel Lele means nasi with Fried Ikan Lele served with sambal trasi and lalapan (raw vegetables: lettuce, cucumber, cabbage)

Location: Warung Citra Kawi and Soekarno Hatta, Kampung Klaseman (morning only), In front of Perbankan Unmer (evening)

8/ Nasi Gurami Goreng and Bakar at Pujasera2 and Natural Resto found at Kebon Agung.

9/ Tempe Penyet at Kuburan Kasin, many warung around Malang

10/ Warung Nasi Aneka Menu / Restaurant

Top names: Marhaen; Nyik Sun; Warung Lama H. Ridwan, Panglima Sudirman; Lesehan Stadion, Citra, Hok Lay; Toko Oen; Ringin Asri; Warung Bu Haji AREMA (with Javanese using AREMA naming for the meal n beverages) at perempatan Kidul Dalem

VIII. CATEGORY : JAJAN and KUE

1/ Jajan Gorengan

Details : Rich variety of fried snacks and cookies: pohong (cassava), tela (sweet potato), tempe menjes, tahu brontak, weci, tape, bakwan, kokam, gandoz, ketan jadah, tape ketan hitam, tahu petis, getas ketan, perut ayam, etc.
Location : Gorengan can be found almost everywhere in Malang, especially at traditional markets. My favorites are Pasar Bunul and Pasar Besar, Gang Jalan Gajayana next to Salon Didiet, Kaliurang, Perempatan rel kereta Ciliwung

2/ Jajan Pasar
It is the traditional delight served with shredded coconut and syrup of palm sugar. Details : putu, lopis, cenil, klepon, gatot, sawut, horok2, ketan item-putih

Location : Gang In front of Dunkin Donat Celaket, pasar pagi and malam, Pasar Bunul, Pasar Besar.

3/ Martabak and Terang Bulan Lokal
Details : martabak telor, terang bulan
Location : Pasar Senggol, Kelud, Martabak Dinoyo in front of Soto Kudus, Bang Sohel Tongan, Kairo pertigaan (T-junction) Kauman, Agung pertokoaan in front of Mitra Dept Store, Perempatan ITN

IX. SOTO-SOTOAN:

1/ Soto Dok Soto daging Lamongan

Dok means the sound of ketchup bottle flung hardly on the preparation table and sounds ‘DOK’ so loudly, normally visitors will be startled with the sound. So, murah meriah + kaget 😀 !
Details : soto daging, jeroan sapi, perkedel kentang and hot tea.
Location : It was near Bioskop President Jl.
Sarangan, now it moves to pojokan in front of GOR Pulosari and Pasar Tawangmangu

2/ Soto Babon Khas

It’s like other soto in Malang, except for the chicken is from Babon meat. Babon means a fat, female chicken.

Location : Pasar besi tua Bentoel Lama

3/ Soto Ayam lamongan Oro2 Dowo and di Tlogomas, Khas Jalan Lombok and near STIA Tlogomas spesial pake koyah (soybean powder).

4/ Soto Kambing (Ngelo) It’s soto daging and jeroan kambing with koyah and lontong. The soup contains much fat (gajih)
Location : atround Kampus III Unmuh Tlogomas (Terminal Landungsari)

5/ Soto Shampo . It’s like Soto Lombok, but the taste is more spicy.
Location : a warung at perempatan Lapangan Shampo (Angkatan Laut near SMAN 5) (awas suka antri and habis sebelum jam 11 malem)

X. CATEGORY: BEVERAGES

1/ Wedang Ronde and Angsle

Ronde is a bowl of hot gingerale with roasted peanut and sticky ball called klepon ; Angsle is sweet kuah santan  mixed with bread cut into kotak2.
Location : there are many phikulan or rombong around housing area

2/ STMJ Hot milk, eggyolk, honey, and ginger (sometimes plus ginseng and other herbs)

Location : STJM is always sold at evening time. Jl. Trunojoyo (Pak Sentot), Jalan Kawi, Bareng near Jalan Semangka, Jalan Surabaya, Pujasera Pulosari. The sellers usually sell Roasted Corn and Toast (Jagung & Roti Bakar).

3/ Es Selon

Details: this is actually Es Campur: a bowl of fruit cocktail (blewah/cantalope, nanas/pineapple, melon, alpukat/avocado, tomato) with milk and syrup plus kolang-kaling/sugar-palm fruit, cincau, agar-agar/jelly, rumput laut/ fresh seaweed. I used to have it at Lapangan Rampal , Pasar Bunul, or Jalan Muharto, but it can be found almost everywhere in Malang.

XI. CATEGORY: CHICKEN MENU

Chicken is not only the main ingredient for Soto. There are many variations of chicken dishes:

1/ Sate Ayam ARODAM . Sate Medhure or ETAS KITIP are available everywhere in Malang.

2/ Ayam Bakar Pak No Pom Bensin Kasin Sawahan and sejumlah tempat lainnya

3/ Ayam Goreng

Details: Fried chicken menu. The famous names are Ayam Goreng Pemuda, Ayam Tenes, Ayam Prambanan. I heard Ayam Goreng Lintang Cafe Sawojajar is also good.

Location : In front of Perbankan Unmer, Jalan Galunggung in front of Gading Pesantren and di Pujasera2.

XII. Rawon Jahat Kawi Atas masuk Bareng, Nguling, Warung Perempatan Muharto

XIII. Bang Sohel Tongan Sate Gule and Etas Mbik diberbagai pelosok kota

XIV. Pujasera DEMPO, Bondowoso, Pulosari, Soekarno Hatta, Kawi, Bengawan Solo (Sanan / Purwantoro jalan logam2)

XV. Cantonese Cuisine and Sea Food

1/. Cwimie or Mie Pangsit
Location : Belakang SMA Dempo, Pujasera Pulosari, jalan naik Tanjung – Mergan, Isor Uwit in front of Pasar Oro2 Dowo, Mie Gloria in front of Plasa Malang (non halal), Mie Gajah Mada Pecinan next to Rahman Sports (non halal); and Gang Jangkrik (this too, non halal).

2/ Seafood Location: in every Pujasera; jomplangan Ciliwung

3/ Duk-Duk Chinese Food (Duk-Duk means the sound of kentongan by the street vendors when they wander around Malang to sell their meals)

Details : ala chinese food nasi goreng, mie rebus or goreng, fu yung hai, cap cay, tamie goreng, ayam mentega, nasi mawut, mihun dll.

Location : in front of Bank Bali jalan Semeru, gerbang UNMER, pertigaan jalan Jakarta – Ijen; every housing residences and kost2an (boarding house for students)

XVI. CATEGORY: OLEH-OLEH

Besides tempe Malang, you can try other special OLE2 from Malang:

1/ Kue dollar It’s crepes shaped like coins; It has many variations: plain, banana, chocolate, sesame (wijen), etc. Available at Sukun area.

2/Kripik buah (fruit chips) It’s amazing that many fruits can be converted to chips, like pineapple, strawberry, jackfruit, apple, etc. My favorite is made by Kusuma Agro Wisata. Get them from Lancar Jaya shop.

3/Kripik Bakso I usually buy kripik bakso at any outlets of Bakso President (di Mitra I or behind Mitra II building), Bakso Kota Cak Man.

Well, that’s all that I still remember about the food and beverages in Malang. I think there will be more to hunt in Malang (especially after 3 years of leaving the town). Wadooh, selak moleh, Ker! Kuangeen puool!!!

Fasting in the Month of Ramadhan

What is the Month of Ramadhan?
Ramadhan, the ninth month of the Islamic lunar calendar; it could be 29 or 30 days long. An Islamic month begins with the sighting of the new crescent in the western horizon, immediately after sunset. Muslims look toward the western horizon for the new moon on the 29th day of Sha’ban, the eighth month. If the new moon is sighted, Ramadhan has begun with the sunset but fasting begins with the next dawn. If the new moon is not sighted on this 29th day, Muslims complete 30 days of Sha’ban and Ramadhan begins the following day.
What is the Significance of Ramadhan and Fasting?
Allah says in the Qur’an:
‘O You who believe! Fasting is prescribed for you, even as it was prescribed for those before you, that you may attain God-consciousness. 2:183

“In the month of Ramadhan the Quran was revealed, a book of guidance with proofs of guidance distinguishing right from wrong. Therefore whoever of you is present in that month let him fast. But who is ill or on a journey shall fast a similar number of days later on. Allah desires your well-being, not your discomfort. He desires you to fast the whole month so that you may magnify Him and render thanks to Him for giving you His guidance.” 2:185

Accordingly, the month of Ramadhan is called the month of the Qur’an, therefore, Muslims have tradition of reciting Qur’an frequently in this month.
What is Shaum or Fasting?
Shaum means a fast that begins with dawn and ends with sunset. Muslims rise before dawn, eat Sahur (pre-dawn meal) and drink liquids for the preparation of Shaum (fasting). Eating and drinking stops at dawn. During the day no eating, drinking or sexual activity is allowed. In addition, a Muslim must adhere to the moral code of Islam very strictly as failure violates the requirements of fasting.

Fasting in the month of Ramadhan is one of the deeds of worship required of all Muslims who have attained puberty. Women who are having their menstrual period or who have not fully recovered from childbirth postpone the fast until they are completely out of their special conditions. In addition, those who are ill or in travel may choose to postpone their fast.

Muslims fast because Allah has commanded them to do so. However, they may also think about the benefits of fasting which may include developing control over hunger, thirst and sexual urges, training to be a good moral person and, testing sincerity to the Creator. During the fast, Muslims may conduct their business as usual. However, in the Muslim countries working hours are shortened by a couple of hours a day and the hours are changed to make the work comfortable.

The fast is broken immediately after sunset by, usually, eating dates and drinking water or juice. However, any lawful food or drink may be used to break the fast. This is followed by the Maghrib salah (after sunset prayer) which is followed by a complete meal. After a brief rest, Muslims go to the mosque to offer the ‘Isha salah (night prayer) and then a special night prayer, called taraweeh.

Taraweeh: This nightly congregational salah (prayer) is performed after the ‘Isha salah. Traditionally, a Hafiz of the Qur’an, a person who has memorized the whole Qur’an which is in Arabic, leads the prayer. He recites the Qur’an in small portions, in proper sequence, every night and completes the recitation of the whole Qur’an before the end of the month of Ramadhan. Every Muslim who attends such prayers regularly gets the opportunity of listening to the whole Qur’an in a month. If a Hafiz of the Qur’an is not available, the Muslim who has memorized the most in a group leads the prayer and recites according to his ability. In the absence of a Hafiz some Muslims hold the Qur’an in the hand during their salah and read from it. Some Islamic scholars cite the report of the Prophet (pbuh) that, with the exception of three nights in one Ramadhan, he always prayed during the night in his apartment whether it was Ramadhan or not.
Ramadhan Generosity:
The month of Ramadhan brings many blessings multiplied manifold for those who do good deeds. During this month people are more generous, more cordial, friendlier and more ready than other times of the year to do good work. The poor and the needy receive food, clothing and money from the well-to-do in the community. Many people go to the mosque in the neighbourhood for fast breaking and meals. People in the neighbourhood send fruit, food and drinks to the mosque – the atmosphere is that of a friendly pot luck dinner every evening of the month.

Well-known philanthropists of the Muslim community find themselves surrounded by the needy people and Islamic workers for donations. Zakat, a wealth purifying tax, and donations are given at this time of the year since many Muslims wish to take the opportunity of multiplied rewards from Allah.

Lailatul Qadr: This is the night of the Qadr. The term Al- Qadr has been frequently translated as “the power”. A better translation may be “the value” or “the decree” because Allah says the value of this night is better than one thousand months, a life time of over eighty-three years. Allah sends His decrees in this night. This is the night when the Qur’an was revealed. Allah says in the Qur’an:
“We have indeed revealed this (the Quran) in the Night of Value (or Measure). And what will explain to you what the Night of Value is? The Night of Value is better than a thousand months. Therein come down angels and the Spirit (the angel Gabriel) by Allah’s permission with all decrees. (That night is) Peace until the rising of the dawn. ” 97:1-5

The night of value is a gift to mankind from Allah. However, it is not clear which night is Lailatul Qadr. Some reports by companions of the Prophet (pbuh) allude it to be the 27th night of the month of Ramadhan, but many more sayings point to any of the odd date nights during the last third of the month of Ramadhan. According to authentic teachings of the Prophet Muhammad (pbuh) Muslims are advised to spend the 21st, 23rd, 25th, 27th and 29th nights of Ramadhan in worship and doing good works to assure finding Lailatul-Qadr. A portion of the Muslims stay up all night in prayers and good works, however, the Prophet(pbuh) and his companions used to sleep at least one-third of the night.

In Muslim countries, the 27th of Ramadhan is a holiday to enable people to rest during the day after all night of worship. Schools are closed from the 27th of Ramadhan through the 2nd of Shawwal (5 to 6 days) to combine Laylat al-Qadr and ‘Idul Fitri observances.
I’tikaf or Seclusion:
The practice of the Prophet Muhammad (pbuh) was to spend the last ten days and nights of Ramadhan in the masjid (mosque). Following his practice, it is considered a community duty that some people go in I’tekaf (seclusion) in a neighborhood masjid. The people in I’tekaf spend their time in various forms of Dhikr (remembrance of Allah), such as doing extra salah, recitation and study of the Qur’an, study of the Hadith, repetition of some phrases of praise and glory to Allah, exhorting each other to be good through obeying Allah and His Messenger (pbuh). Since people in I’tikaf are not permitted to go outside the masjid except for emergencies, they sleep in the masjid and use available facilities of the masjid. The food for the people in I’tekaf is provided either by their own families or people in the community. Itekaf is terminated, generally, at the declaration of sighting of the moon or the end of the month of Ramadhan. For busy people a shorter version of I’tikaf is allowed, such as one night, one day or a few days.
Sadaqat al-Fitr:
In general, any material help extended to the poor, needy and to those who ask and are deserving is called Sadaqah. Sadaqat al-Fitr, which is also called Zakat al-Fitr is the obligatory material help extended to the poor of the society before the ‘Eid prayers, preferably to be given early enough for the poor to prepare for the celebration. In Indonesia, the estimated amount is IDR30,000,- to be given on behalf of each member of the donor’s family, including infants.
Iedul Fitr:
The end of the fasting month is celebrated on the first of Shawwal, the 10th month, which follows Ramadhan. Traditionally, on the 29th of Ramadhan after sunset, people go out in the open looking for a new crescent in the western horizon where the sun sets. If the crescent is sighted, the end of Ramadhan and ‘Eid are declared. If the crescent is not sighted, Ramadhan is extended by one day.

On the day of ‘Eid, people take a bath or shower in the early morning, eat breakfast, wear their best clothes, apply perfume and proceed to the place of ‘Eid congregation while pronouncing takbeerat, saying, “Allah is the Greatest, there is no deity but Allah and all praise belongs to Allah.” Muslims pronounce takbeerat in their homes, in the street and at the place of congregation while waiting for the leader, Imam. It was the practice of the Prophet Muhammad (pbuh) to hold ‘Eid prayer congregations in open grounds. Following the practice of the Prophet(s) Muslims are advised to hold ‘Eid prayers in open grounds. In the Muslim countries with warm climate there are designated ‘Eid prayer grounds. However, in North America Muslims rent halls at convention centers or major hotels.

The Imam rises at the appointed time, leads the prayers and delivers a khutbah, sermon. At the end of the sermon, people supplicate, greet, embrace and congratulate each other for the successful completion of Ramadhan and ask Allah for the acceptance of their efforts in His obedience.

During the day, people visit each other and children may receive gifts. In some countries, people go for picnics and other gatherings. In addition, special ‘Eid celebrations may be arranged at work or in social settings. Essentially, ‘Eid is a day of thanks to Allah, and also a gathering of family and friends.
‘Umrah or Minor Hajj in ‘Ramadhan:
There is a report from Prophet Muhammad (pbuh) saying that performing ‘Umrah in the month of Ramadhan is equal to performing a major or complete Hajj. Hajj is a pilgrimage to Makkah (commonly misspelled as Mecca). Hajj is the enactment of some of the trials and tribulations of Prophet Abraham(As), his wife Hajirah (Hajjar) and his oldest son, Isma’il(As) . Hajj includes the sacrifice of Ishmael, represented by the sacrifice of an animal, such as, ram, goat, sheep, cow or a camel. Complete Hajj lasts for five days but ‘Umrah is completed in a couple of hours. ‘Umrah is only a small part of the Hajj. An animal sacrifice may be offered at the completion of ‘Umrah. ‘Umrah may be performed anytime during the year but it has special significance in Ramadhan. Hajj is performed only during the 8th and 13th days of Dhu al-Hijjah, the twelveth month of the Islamic calendar.

References:
Ali, M. Amir, Ph.D.2008. Ramadhan and Fasting.

The Holy Qur’an.